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Timber & Rot

Dry rot treatment

Serpula lacrymans. Of everything on this site, it is the one you cannot afford to leave alone.

Identification, extent tracing, removal of affected timber and masonry sterilisation. Dry rot spreads through masonry and will keep going until the moisture source is cut off.

Why it is treated differently from other rot

Wet rot needs consistently wet timber and stays where the water is. Cut off the moisture and it stops. Dry rot does something wet rot cannot: it grows conductive strands that transport water from a wet source into dry timber, which lets it spread into material that would otherwise be perfectly safe.

Those strands travel through and behind masonry, plaster and under floors. So an outbreak visible in one room routinely extends well beyond it, through the wall, into the joist ends of the next. This is why an outbreak is traced rather than simply cut out at the visible edge — treating what you can see and stopping there is the standard way dry rot recurs.

The name is misleading and worth correcting: it needs moisture to establish, typically timber above roughly twenty per cent moisture content. 'Dry' describes the cracked, desiccated state it leaves timber in, not the conditions it needs.

What treatment involves

First, cut off the water. Every outbreak has a moisture source — a leak, penetrating damp, a defective gutter, a blocked subfloor vent — and without removing it, no treatment holds. This is the single most important step and the one most often skimped.

Then establish the true extent, which means opening up beyond the visible damage: lifting floors, removing plaster, following strands through the structure until you reach sound material. Then remove affected timber with a margin past the last sign of growth, sterilise adjoining masonry where strands have run through it, and reinstate with treated timber, isolated from damp masonry where the detail allows.

Then improve the conditions so it cannot re-establish: subfloor ventilation cleared and working, timber kept away from damp walls, and the building detail corrected rather than merely patched.

Do not wait on it

Dry rot attacks structural timber — joists, lintels, wall plates, roof timbers. Left running, it moves from a decorating problem to a structural one, and the cost curve is steep. It is the one damp-related condition where prompt action is reliably cheaper than considered deliberation.

Work is quoted fixed price and agreed in writing before it begins, and most of it carries a ten-year written guarantee, insurance-backed if you want that.

Common questions

How do I know if it is dry rot or wet rot?
Deep cubic cracking, a dry crumbly texture, grey strands across masonry and any large fruiting body point to dry rot. Wet rot is usually darker, softer, spongy while wet, and confined to the damp area. If you are unsure, treat it as the more serious of the two until someone has looked.
Does the whole house need chemically treating?
No, and be wary of anyone proposing that. Modern practice is targeted: control the moisture, remove affected material with a margin, sterilise where strands have run. Blanket spraying is a dated approach.
Will my insurance cover it?
Sometimes, where it results from a sudden insured event such as an escape of water. Gradual deterioration is commonly excluded. A written survey identifying the cause is usually what the insurer needs in order to decide.

Dry Rot Treatment across Surrey and South West London

Based at Hampton Court in East Molesey, covering East Molesey, West Molesey, Thames Ditton, Surbiton, Kingston upon Thames, Esher, Walton-on-Thames, Teddington, Twickenham, Cobham, Weybridge, Epsom, Tadworth, Chertsey, Staines and Raynes Park. Every quote is fixed price and agreed in writing before any work begins.

Call 07818 400748